Olympic National Park, WA

After being spoiled by a comfortable bed and shower at Alex (Molly’s cousin) and Alayna’s house in Salem OR, we made our way north to the Olympic peninsula in Washington. Our first campsite was in Ocean City, WA just for one night.

JD at Ocean City Beach
The beautiful beach at Ocean City. Molly was compelled to dip her feet in the ocean when it was a blustery 55° out.

Our first visit to Olympic NP, back in May of 2018, was one of the first backpacking trips we took together. We were so inexperienced. Our packs were so heavy and my hiking boots gave me so many blisters I had to tape my toes together. However, I remember being so amazed by the huge trees, lush dense forests and the water that looked like blue Frost Gatorade, we were hooked. Now we take about two backpacking trips a year.

Molly and I on the Olympic coast in 2018
Molly and I on the Olympic coast in 2018

Our original plan for this trip was to backpack two nights on the north coast of Olympic NP leaving from Rialto beach and two nights in the Hoh rainforest. However, after reading about frequent car break-ins at beach trailheads we decided it was not worth the risk on this trip, so we changed our coastal permit to hike along the Bogachiel trail to Flapjack campsite.

Sea life at Ruby
Sea anemones and Starfish we saw when we stopped at Ruby Beach.

The Bogachiel River is one of several rivers (including the Hoh River) on the west side of the Olympic mountains. As the coastal moisture rises up the mountains it dumps a lot of rain creating a temperate rainforest. The forest is so green, dense and everything is covered in moss.

Bogachiel
Moss covered forest on the Bogachiel River Trail.

The Bogachiel river trail was nice for the first eight miles where the forest service did maintenance, the last three miles we had to do some bushwhacking. We did have permits to stay two nights on this trail, but we had enough, so we hiked all the way out after one night. We looked for a dispersed campsite in the Olympic National Forest and got super lucky finding a nice site with its own hidden swimming hole.

Bushwacking on the Bogachiel River Trail.
JD stumbling through the dense jungle that is the Bogachiel River Trail. We asked for more greenery when we were in the John Muir Wilderness. Be careful what you wish for.
Molly swimming
Molly enjoying her private swimming hole she found in the Olympic National Forest.

Before heading into the Hoh rainforest we hiked along Rialto beach to Hole in the Wall. We explored the tide pools and saw lots of starfish, anemones and even a seal.

Starfish
Starfish on Rialto Beach were more photogenic than the seal.
Molly in the "Hole in the Wall"
Molly in the “Hole in the Wall”

Back on our 2018 trip we also hiked in the Hoh rainforest. However, it was early May so we only went as far as the snow would let us. This time Molly was determined to see Blue Glacier at the end of the trail, 17.6 miles in and 5,000′ up. Our first night we found a sandy river site at the Olympus ranger station, only nine (relatively flat) miles in.

Moss in the Hoh rainforest
Moss covers everything that doesn’t move in the Hoh rainforest.
Camp spot at Olympus ranger station
Our campsite on the Hoh River near the Olympus ranger station.

We woke up early and hiked up to what was supposed to be our second site at Elk Lake by 9AM. We did not like how crowded sites were and almost all the sites were still occupied with sleepy-heads who hadn’t gotten up yet. We knew we weren’t going to stay at Elk Lake for the night, but we ditched our tent and sleeping gear anyway to shed some weight and made our way up to the glacier. The trail was brutal and it was hot and humid, but the view of Blue Glacier rewarded us at the end.

Ladder in the Hoh
A landslide took out the Hoh River trail. This sketchy ladder was the parks solution.
Blue glacier
The view of Blue Glacier and Mount Olympus at the end of the Hoh River Trail. This is where the blue Frost Gatorade is made. We could hear the glacier pop and shift as it warmed up.

We ended up hiking all the way back to our original site at the Olympus ranger station. It was a long day, 19.1miles and 4,200′ of elevation gain. The next morning we quickly hiked out of the Hoh rainforest to get some much deserved Taco Bell.

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