Rome, Italy

Author: Molly

The first stop in Italy was Rome, which we reached in the pouring rain after a long travel day. We stayed four nights at a hotel inside a convent near Vatican City, which was a bit unusual but was very quiet and had a great breakfast.

I admittedly did not pre-book as many Rome activities as Paris, but the first day we did have Colosseum tickets as well as a Vatican tour (self guided tours were sold out and I wasn’t going to miss it).

The Colosseum deserves its reputation as a must visit. It is very impressive, but so are the crowds.

Colosseum outside
The Colosseum was massive and worth a stop.

Vatican City was interesting, but the highlight for me was the Sistine Chapel (no pictures allowed in the chapel) and the hall of maps. The tour was a little rushed, but we had time before closing to wander and enjoy the less-busy galleries. It’s a bit overwhelming, but I’m glad we made the stop.

Hall of maps
The Hall of Maps in Vatican Museum, right before closing time
One of my favorite rooms in the Vatican Musuem was dedicated to animal statues

The next day, there was a Metro strike in Rome, so we did a lot of walking. Most of the day was spent in the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill, which together cover a huge area. It was raining and quite peaceful when we arrived. Palatine Hill holds thousands of years of civilizations building atop or reusing prior buildings, making it a fascinating walk through time.

Roman forum arch
One of the arches, with intricate carvings in the Roman Forum
Treviso fountain
Trevi fountain is very beautiful but…
….everyone else thinks so too!

After failing to get tickets to the Pantheon, we wandered over to the Museum of the Capuchin Crypt. Beware, if you didn’t like the Paris catacombs, you won’t like this! Over the course of almost 400 years, Capuchin monks buried their dead and then periodically exhumed them and created art on the walls of the crypt. Before entering you go through a museum, maybe to try to convince you that this isn’t quite strange. It was certainly an interesting spot to walk through, though I was quite worried when I saw a guy about to hit his head on a spine.

Monk crypt
This is actually the least morbid picture I have of the crypt, featuring the skeleton with the scythe on the ceiling.

I was lucky to nab special tickets for a nighttime showing at the Borghese museum, an art collection mainly containing ancient sculptures. The museum is unique because it was purpose-built for this collection with decorated rooms corresponding to the sculptures. We did have to walk almost 2 hours across Rome after this, but it was my favorite museum we saw in Italy.

Borghese
One of the Borghese museum statues, in a heavily decorated room

The last day happened to be the monthly free museum day. We went to the Pantheon when it opened, so I didn’t have to leave Rome without seeing the largest un-reinforced concrete dome. We stopped by the Museum of Modern Art and then Castel Sant’Angelo, which was originally constructed in the 2nd century as a mausoleum for a Roman emporer before being converted.

Jon-David modern art
Jon-David facing down a dog at the modern art museum
Vatican city from the Castel Sant’Angelo. A bridge directly connects the two, allowing past Pope’s to flee as needed.
Dome
Us with the Pantheon dome. The dome is open in the middle, and there are drains in the floor for rain.

Our last stop was at Saint Peter’s Basilica, which we had missed on our initial Vatican visit, but I was determined to see (despite a long line).

St peters dome
Saint Peter’s Basilica ceiling, one of many domes. The scale of the church is impossible to capture.

Rome had always been on my list to visit, and it really is brimming with sites. However, it was honestly not our favorite spot. The intensity of the crowds was not a surprise, but we also just didn’t settle into Rome the way we did in other places. The sites in Rome also seem to play toward guided tours, and the information available without a tour was in very sharp contrast to our experience in London and Paris.

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